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20 x 40 Rectangle Layout Instructions and Pool
Dimensions
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Using 2' long pieces of #3 re-bar
drive a pin at 1 & 2 parallel with fence house etc. 44'-0"
apart. Using 2 measuring tapes hooked on these two pins measure
50'-1-1/2" from pin 1 & 24'-0" from pin 2 & drive a pin where
these two measurements intersect. Now do the same measuring
50'-1-1/2" from pin 2 &
24'-0" from pin 1. Run a nylon string around these 4 pins and
double check to make sure you will not infringe on any easements or
setback codes listed on your building permit etc. Next measure down the string
15'-10" from
the shallow end pin & drive a pin this pin is where the shallow to
hopper break starts. This layout includes your 2' working space behind
the pool wall. Using layout paint or lime mark along the string &
remove all pins except #1 & #2 & the pin at X the break. Spray paint a circle around
these 3 pins so the backhoe operator can avoid them.
From the level
you want the top of the deck to be, exc. a trench 45" down & 3' wide
down the side that has the least room to operate in & across the end that is
closest to the house. (Shallow end of pool
should face the main access route from the house) keep the outside 2' as level as possible
and 45" down from the finished grade level. Run a string from the #1
to the #2 layout pin. From the pin closest to the house measure
2'-0" and using a carpenters sq. drop a pin holding it at the
very top and at the end of the sq. (2' in from the string) & drive a pin in the trench
where it landed. This will be the start of the long side pool wall.
Hook a tape on this pin & measure down the trench
40'-0" and drive a pin (24" in from the string). Run a string
between
these 2 pins. All measurements for the pool will be from these 2 pins.
Excavate the shallow end of the pool back to apx. 6' beyond the break pin
keeping it level at the 45" depth. Measure back 13'-10" from the end of the
1st wall pin & drive a pin This is your slope break point see
your print Fig#1 these two pins represent X & Y. From the Y pin
measure 20'-0" & from the X pin 24'-3-7/8" to find the
corner pin at Z then measure from the Z pin 13'-10" and 20' from X & run a
string across marking your break from shallow to deep. At this string you will dig your long slope to the Hopper.
For every 3'-6" in length you will drop 14-1/2" & the side slope will drop
14-1/2" per foot into the pool. If the operator over digs discard the over-dig
dirt & replace with sand or stone and tamp well. |
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Before bolting the panels you will save time
in the long run, if using sand or #11 crushed stone, you level and tamp
the area where the panels will be placed, as they will bolt together much
easier. Run a string around the 4 corner pins (Easiest way is to tie the string a little high on
the pin & tap the pin down checking with a transit until the string is at
the proper depth.) Fill voids under the string and
tamp well.
Start setting panels along the outside of the string starting at a corner pin &
with the 90 deg. corner bracket bolt the 1st long wall panel to the 1st
end wall panel. Drive a dead man at each joint & use the bent end of the
adjusting rod, instead of a bolt in the 1st or 2nd bolt hole & use the
nuts on the threaded rod to plumb the panels
(see Fig# 7).
For a AquaLumin Nicheless light you will drill a 3" hole with a metal hole saw 28" down
from the top of the panel flange centered under the diving board. Sam
light panels are pre-punched for a standard niche housing centered in a
8' panel at the bottom to provide 18" of water above the light lens. Do
not install the light panel upside down! |
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Before starting your floor set
your main drain and run a trench for your main drain line. Glue your
pipe together to a point that is above your return fittings so in
case you forget when filling the pool, water won't wind up in your
over dig. The best course is to run all plumbing and pressure test,
checking all joints for leaks.
Visually check all the pipe lines
and fittings, while under pressure using a water pressure tester, especially in
cold weather, as the workers have a tendency to drop the pipe around
the pool, and pipe is brittle when temperatures drop below 50 deg.
and hair line cracks are hard to see when installing the pipe. |
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CLICK HERE FOR PLUMBING DETAIL |
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Follow the
finished floor dimensions carefully. Running strings criss-crossed
to the finished floor height on all planes is the easiest way to get
the floor flat. All planes outlined in fig 5 are flat. This is how
the liner is made and a proper fit can only be accomplished if the
bottom is troweled to these dimensions. Click on the link at the
bottom of these construction guidelines for some installation tips
that will be very helpful and may save you a lot of time.
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Click Here for Installation Tips
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