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18 x 36 Rectangle Layout Instructions and Pool
Dimensions
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 Using 2' long pieces of #3 re-bar
drive a pin at 1 & 2 parallel with fence house etc. 40'-0"
apart. Using 2 measuring tapes hooked on these two pins measure
45'-7-7/8" from pin 1 & 22'-0" from pin 2 & drive a pin where
these two measurements intersect. Now do the same measuring
45'-7-7/8" from pin 2 &
24'0" from pin 1. Run a nylon string around these 4 pins and you
have your dig area including the 2' work area laid out. Using layout paint or lime mark along the string &
remove all pins except 1 & 2. Spray paint a circle around
these pins so the backhoe operator can avoid them.
Establish the level
you want the top of the pool deck to be and drive a 2x2 so the top
of this grade stake is is at this level (Place
this stake in a area where it will not be in the way during construction)
Then Excavate a trench 45" down & 3' wide
down the side that has the least room for the backhoe to operate in & across the end that is
closest to the house. (Shallow end of pool
should always face the main access route from the house) keep the outside 2' as level as possible
and 45" down from the finished grade stake. Run a string from the #1
to the #2 layout pin. From the pin closest to the house measure
2'-0" and using a carpenters sq. drop a pin holding it at the very top and at the end of the sq. (2' in from the string) & drive a pin in the trench
where it landed. This will be the start of the pool wall. Hook a tape on this pin & measure down the trench
36'-0" and drive a pin (24" in from the string). Run a string on these 2
pins. All measurements for the pool will be from these 2 pins.
Excavate the
shallow end of the pool back to apx. 16 to 18' keeping it level at the 45"
depth. From the pin at the shallow end measure back along the string
9'-10" this is your slope break point (see your print Fig#1 these two pins represent X & Y)
and put a pin. To locate the opposite side wall start point & using 2
tapes measure 18'-0" from Y & 20'-6-1/4" from X & put a pin at Z. Measure
back 9'-10" from this pin & 18'-0" from X & run a string across the pool.
This is your slope break line. At this string you will dig your long
slope to the Hopper. For every 3'-6" you will drop 14-1/2" & the side
slopes will drop 14-1/2" for every 11-1/2". If the operator over digs
discard the over-dig dirt & replace with sand or stone and tamp well. |
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Before bolting the panels you will save time
in the long run, if using sand or #11 crushed stone, you level and tamp
the area where the panels will be placed, as they will bolt together much
easier. Run a string around the 4 corner pins (Easiest way is to tie the string a little high on
the pin & tap the pin down checking with a transit until the string is at
the proper depth.) Fill voids under the string and
tamp well.
Start setting panels along the outside of the string starting at a corner pin &
with the 90 deg. corner bracket bolt the 1st long wall panel to the 1st
end wall panel. Drive a dead man at each joint & use the bent end of the
adjusting rod, instead of a bolt in the 1st or 2nd bolt hole & use the
nuts on the threaded rod to plumb the panels
(see Fig# 7).
For a AquaLumin Nicheless light you will drill a 3" hole with a metal hole saw 28" down
from the top of the panel flange centered under the diving board. Sam
light panels are pre-punched for a standard niche housing centered in a
8' panel at the bottom to provide 18" of water above the light lens. Do
not install the light panel upside down! |
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Before starting your floor set
your main drain and run a trench for your main drain line. Glue your
pipe together to a point that is above your return fittings so in
case you forget when filling the pool, water won't wind up in your
over dig. The best course is to run all plumbing and pressure test,
checking all joints for leaks.
Visually check all the pipe lines
and fittings, while under pressure using a water pressure tester, especially in
cold weather, as the workers have a tendency to drop the pipe around
the pool, and pipe is brittle when temperatures drop below 50 deg.
and hair line cracks are hard to see when installing the pipe. |
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CLICK HERE FOR PLUMBING DETAIL |
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Follow the
finished floor dimensions carefully. Running strings criss-crossed
to the finished floor height on all planes is the easiest way to get
the floor flat. All planes outlined in fig 5 are flat. This is how
the liner is made and a proper fit can only be accomplished if the
bottom is troweled to these dimensions. Click on the link at the
bottom of these construction guidelines for some installation tips
that will be very helpful and may save you a lot of time.
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Click Here for Installation Tips
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