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17 x 37 Emerald Layout Instructions and Pool
Dimensions
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 Using 2' long pieces of #3 re-bar
drive a pin at 1 & 2 parallel with fence house etc. 40'-6"
apart. Using 2 measuring tapes hooked on these two pins measure
45'-4-1/2" from pin 1 & 20'-6" from pin 2 & drive a pin where
these two measurements intersect. Now do the same measuring
45'-4-1/2" from pin 2 &
20'-6" from pin 1. Run a nylon string around these 4 pins and you
have a rectangle layout.
Next measure down the string 5'-5" both ways from
these 4 pins & drive a pin. Take the string off the 4 layout pins
and run it around the pins A,B,C etc. & you have a 17 x 37
Emerald laid out
that is 2' beyond the pool wall. This is your working space behind
the pool wall. Using layout paint or lime mark along the string &
remove all pins except 1 & 2. Spray paint a circle around
these pins so the backhoe operator can avoid them.
From the level
you want the top of the deck to be, exc. a trench 45" deep & 3' wide
down the side that has the least room to operate in & across the end that is
closest to the house. (Shallow end of pool
should face the main access route from the house) keep the outside 2' as level as possible
and 45" down from the finished grade stake. Run a string from the #1
to the #2 layout pin. From the pin closest to the house measure
6'-3" and using a carpenters sq. drop a pin holding it at the
very top and at the end of the sq. (2') in from the string & drive a pin in the trench
where it landed. This will be the start of the pool wall.
Hook a tape on this pin & measure down the trench
28' and drive a pin 24" in from the string. Run a string on these 2
pins. All measurements for the pool will be from these 2 pins.
Excavate
the shallow end of the pool back to apx. 14 to 16' keeping it level at
the 45" depth. Using the 6'-8'-10' method measure across the pool
from the panel start pin 16'-6" to establish the opposite side wall
start point & run a string. Measure back 6'-1/4" from the end of the
1st wall pin & drive a pin This is your slope break point. From this pin
measure 16'-6" & 6'-1/4" from the other end of wall pin & run a
string. At this string you will dig your long slope to the Hopper.
For every 3'-6" you will drop 14-1/2" & the side slope will drop
14-1/2" per foot. If the operator over digs discard the over dig
dirt & replace with sand or stone and tamp well. |
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 Before bolting panels you will save time in the long
run, if using sand or #11 crushed stone, you level and tamp the area
where the panels will be placed, as they will bolt together much
easier. Put pins at C,D,G & H using 2 tapes ie. 6' from B &
32'-6-1/4 from A. Then 8' from C & 34'-6" from A, then 16'-6"
from B & 32'-6" from A. Reverse for other end. Bolt panels to
these pin locations starting with a 8' sidewall panel to a 6' em.
panel using the V bracket and the bent bolts.
Keep the panels plumb using a dead man
and adj. rod (see Fig# 7 the bent end of the rod replaces a panel bolt
in the 1st or 2nd hole from the top of the panel). For a AquaLumin
Nicheless light you will drill a 3" hole with a metal hole saw 28" down
from the top of the panel flange centered under the diving board. Sam
light panels are pre-punched for a standard niche housing centered in a
8' panel at the bottom to provide 18" of water above the light lens. Do
not install the light panel upside down! |
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 Before starting your floor set
your main drain and run a trench for your main drain line. Glue your
pipe together to a point that is above your return fittings so in
case you forget when filling the pool, water won't wind up in your
over dig. The best course is to run all plumbing and pressure test,
checking all joints for leaks.
Visually check all the pipe lines
and fittings, while under pressure using a water pressure tester, especially in
cold weather, as the workers have a tendency to drop the pipe around
the pool, and pipe is brittle when temperatures drop below 50 deg.
and hair line cracks are hard to see when installing the pipe. |
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Follow the
finished floor dimensions carefully. Running strings criss-crossed
to the finished floor height on all planes is the easiest way to get
the floor flat. All planes outlined in fig 5 are flat. This is how
the liner is made and a proper fit can only be accomplished if the
bottom is troweled to these dimensions. Click on the link at the
bottom of these construction guidelines for some installation tips
that will be very helpful and may save you a lot of time.
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Click Here for Installation Tips
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