Index With Hyperlinks to Location in Manual
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Before
you order a pool kit there are several things you should consider.
Ø Water table in the pool site area.
Ø Easements and subdivision restrictions.
Ø Building codes and lot line set-backs.
Ø Fencing requirements and/or restrictions.
Ø Location of septic tank, field lines, old cisterns etc.
Ø Call BUD (the 800# will be in your phonebook) and they will
mark all your buried lines.
Ø Make sure backhoe, trucks etc. can get access to your pool
site and don't assume your neighbors will let construction equipment cross on
their property.
Ø In choosing proposed locations for your pool keep it close to
the room you will most likely use for access to the pool area. A home with a
pool is better than a home … and a pool keep it close.
Ø Maintenance will require less effort if pool is away from
trees and also bathers can better enjoy the afternoon sun.
Ø Keep in mind where surface water will go when there is a big
down pouring rain. It must be able to drain away from the pool into an area that
is not offensive to you or the neighbors.
Ø Filters need to be back flushed & before picking your
filter consider where this backwash water will go, your neighbors don't want it
and there may be an ordinance against running backwash into the municipal drains.
Should this be the case consider a cartridge filter or adding a backwash
filter.
Ø A good idea is to check with neighbors who have an in-ground
pool to see what problems they had to overcome when they dug their pool, such
as rock or a high water table, while these conditions do not prevent you’re
building a pool, it will involve additional expense.
Proper installation of your PLEASURE POOLÔ
The proper installation of a PLEASURE POOLÔ is
critical to protect your reputation as a professional pool installer and assure
continued product acceptance and customer satisfaction. The purpose of this
manual is to provide the installer with 
innovative skills, and the best-known procedures for successful
installations. These easy to follow instructions also help you avoid painful
and expensive experiences such as; improper grade, pool off level, loose
plumbing fittings, settling concrete, and pool leaks.
This manual represents 48 years experience, research,
and actual on the job know how developed by our installation crews training
dealers throughout the US on over 10,000 below ground pools under all types of
soil conditions. Also feed back from dealers who have overcome difficult soil,
terrain, and weather problems is a large contribution to the knowledge base
that is represented in this manual.
The material in this manual is intended as a guide
only. Southern Indiana Manuf. Co., Inc. makes no representation, warranties, or
guarantees of any kind, expressed or implied, regarding this information. If
there are any discrepancies between this information and state or local
building codes, or if state or local codes are more comprehensive or specific
about construction, design, or safety, those regulations must take
precedence.
The National Spa and Pool Institute
Standards and Recommendations for the Installation of In- Ground Swimming Pools
are as follows.
1. Deck
to be finished with a non-slip finish and sloped ¼” per foot away from pool.
2. Steps,
if installed, must be provided with a handrail as instructed on individual
construction plans.
3. Pool
must have barriers on four sides. All entries in barrier must be provided with
doors or gates that are equipped with self-closing, self-latching mechanisms
that are located above the height of a toddler and are provided with hardware
that enables permanent locking. If the house is part of the the
barrier, all doorways opining from the house to the pool should be provided
with childproof locks or window screens. THE HEIGHT, nature, and description of
the barrier should be determined by consulting local codes. In the absence of
local swimming pool barrier codes, the barrier should be of a construction that
affords no external handhold or footholds and of a material, which is
impenetrable by toddlers. This barrier should be at least four feet in height
and completely surround the swimming pool. Consultation with an expert in the
area of swimming pool barrier design is recommended.
4. Installation
of any electrical device by anyone other than a licensed electrician is
prohibited.
5. Pools
should be provided with minimum of two points of exit in the form of ladders or
steps, one in the deep portion of the pool and one in the shallow portion of
the pool. If a step is used as a point of exit, it should be located in the
shallow end of the pool.
6. One
skimmer must be provided for pools up to 799 square feet. Two skimmers must be
provided for pools 800 to 1600 square feet.
7.
The following area safety signs should be installed in a prominent location:
|
A. |
NO DIVING EXCEPT FROM DIVING
BOARD |
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B. |
DANGER, RISK OF DROWNING |
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C. |
BASIC LIFE SUPPORT |
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D. |
POOL RULES |
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E. |
SAFE DIVING |
8. The following safety equipment should be available:
Ø First
aid kit.
Ø Reach
pole one piece with hook - not less than 12' long.
Ø A
1/4" diameter throwing rope 1-1/2 times the maximum width of the pool or
50' which-
ever is less, to which has been attached a ring buoy with an outside diameter
of approximately
15 inches or some similar floatation device.
9. Main drains shall be of the anti-vortex
type to prevent entrapment.
10. Circulating equipment shall be adequate to turn over complete gallonage in a max. of 12 hours.
Layout of
Pool Area
To provide working space when the pool walls are set
in place, all outer dimensions of the excavation are made 24” larger than the
actual pool size. For example, excavation for a 16’ x 32’ pool is 20’ x 36’
these enlarged dimensions are the “Excavation Dimensions.” The “Over dig” is
the extra 24” excavated beyond all walls of the pool.
The excavation is outlined by four re-rods, one at
each corner. Re-rods should be 3/8” x 2’ (elsewhere in this manual they may be
referred to as “pins”) Drive the first layout pin firmly into the ground in the
excavation corner that has the highest elevation. From this re-rod as a working
point, place the second pin for the length of the pool keeping it equal
distance from the house, fence etc. so the pool will be parallel and square
with its surroundings. Now use two tapes hooking one of the tapes to each pin
and find the measurement for the width of the over dig on one tape and the
diagonal measurement on the other as shown on your print for the pool you are
building. Keep the measuring tape apx. level and if the distance from the tape to the ground is
over 2’, hold the pin at the top at the correct measurements and drop, so the
pins will be the correct distance apart from a level plane.
When the excavation area (pool plus 24” over dig) is
staked out, run a nylon string taunt around these pins and spray along the
string with orange layout paint. (Layout paint dries almost immediately, do
not use any old can of paint lying around or you will have a very upset mother,
mad at you and the children when they track this paint on her carpets!) If you don’t have paint pound the
pins flush with the ground and use the string as a guide for the backhoe
operator to follow. He will appreciate you making an X with flour or something
light colored so he can readily see where the pins are so he doesn’t puncture a
tire.
Once the excavation layout is squared choose the
elevation for the top surface of the pool (top of coping). Normally the surface
will correlate with a surrounding walk, patio deck, or highest ground elevation
of the pool site. The top surface of the pool must be three to four inches
(3”-4”) above the highest ground elevation or rain and snow drainage problems
will result.
To
decide the depth of the initial excavation, locate the highest ground elevation
on the pool site. If this point is not in the way of excavation and dirt
removal, mark it conspicuously for future reference during the pool construction.
If it is in the way of excavation, transpose this elevation to a deck,
sidewalk, mortar joint on a block basement wall, or driving a stake in an out
of the way place. Add four inches (4”) to this elevation and this will now be
the elevation for the top surface of the finished pool.
The
depth of the footing excavation will then be 45” (the pool wall of 42,” plus
the coping height of three inches (3”) below this reference point. Remember,
the reference point plus four inches (4”) is the top of the finished pool
including the coping. This is now known as the “finished elevation”.
IMPORTANT! ALWAYS CHECK THE EXCAVATION DEPTH FROM
THE REFERENCE POINT.
The
45” depth, measured from the top of the coping, will be maintained in the
shallow end and on the 24” wide working ledge or over dig around pool wall
perimeter. The first operation is to dig a trench 36” wide to a uniform depth
of 45” below the reference point selected as the top surface of the pool. Work
from deep to shallow end then across the shallow end of the pool. Setting the
depth of the excavation requires a standard calibrated survey shot stick and
transit level. A 2 x 2 or other similar stick approximately 12’ long can be
substituted for a standard shot stick.
Set
up the transit in an area that gives clear view of the pool sight and won’t
have to be moved during construction. After setting and leveling the transit in
an out of the way place, mark the shot stick. This is done by placing shot
stick at the selected finished elevation and marking it at the level indicated
by the transit. With a pencil, mark the stick at the point where the transit
cross hairs intersect with the shot stick. This marks the finished elevation.
Measure
up the shot stick 45” and draw a line across the 2 x 2 and put a 0 in the
middle of the line. It is helpful to measure 2” above this line and put a dash
and mark +2 so you can tell the operator he is 2” to deep etc. If you put
dashes below the 0 and mark them with a -2 etc you can tell him apx. how much more he has to dig
out to make the trench level. This mark
now determines the excavation depth for the shallow end and over dig ledge.
When the 45” mark is in the level sight of the transit you know that this part
of the hole is at proper depth. If the pencil mark is above the cross hairs,
the excavation is not deep enough and the pool will be higher than the
predetermined elevation. A mark below the cross hairs indicates the excavation
is too deep and the pool wall will be below the predetermined elevation.
Accuracy at this stage will require less shimming and adjusting of pool walls
later.
Most dealers start by digging a
3’ wide trench to the proper depth along the shallow end and the long wall on
the side that has the least room for maneuverability of equipment. After the
trench on one side and the shallow end is done and level, dig out the shallow
end using the shot stick frequently, this will save you having to shave later
by hand.
The
next step is to run a string along the exact panel placement line (24” in from
your layout line using the trench that represents the length of the pool by
holding a pin at the topmost point and dropping.) Place a pin at each end
making sure they are the same distance apart as your print calls for. The end
wall will need to be square with this line using 6’/8’/10’ method for squaring
and put a pin in the opposite shallow corner.
Next
measure the length of the shallow minus 2” (i.e.: if your shallow end is 8’
your slope starts at 7’-10” and is going to slope from this point down a additional
58” over 14’ and the side and end slopes will go from your string down 58” and
in 3’-10”.) on both sides and place a pin this represents the break where the
bottom slopes down to the hopper. Run a string across this break and you then
begin digging the slopes.
All
diving slopes will be 14’ long and side and end slopes will be 4’ on a diving
pool. On your shot stick measure up from your line with the 0 representing your
depth at the bottom of the panels another 58” and draw another line and put a 0
in the center so you can be sure you have the deep end hopper at the required
depth.
Using
the strings as a guide cut the earth with a shovel along the strings.
Simultaneously, the termination of the deep end slope should be marked along
the strings with re-rod pins. Refer to your print for slope lengths and hopper
depths.
IMPORTANT:
Be careful not to dig into the area outside the string to avoid an undercut of
the 24” working ledge. Doing so will remove supporting ledge for panels.
While
digging the hopper, the excavator can sight across to the opposite side of the
pool and trim the hopper walls to the proper slope as the final depth of the
hole is reached. The excavated depth of the hopper is four inches 4” deeper
than the finished dimensions. This allows for two inches 2” slope to the main
drain.
Refer
to the Construction plans for installation of your particular pool size. For a
diving pool this total excavated depth is 8’-7” measured from the top of the
coping. (The original grade stake or benchmark you set as your finished height
of the pool deck.)
Check
the hopper to make sure it is squared as you proceed from the hopper toward the
deep end. Square the hopper by laying out the sides and ends of the hopper to
the proper dimensions, and then measure the diagonals. If the diagonals are
equal, the layout is square.
The
excavator should dig the plumbing trench at a depth of at least 18”. It should
reach from the pool over-dig to the equipment pad. This will save digging by
hand later.
Ordering
Concrete Footing
The concrete footing should be
ordered at least one day in advance to avoid scheduling problems the day of the
pour. Placing a “will call” is also recommended for ordering the
concrete decking and make sure you call early the day of the pour or they may
cancel your “will call” order.
Leveling Blocks
After
the hole is dug use an 8” to 12” long piece of 2 x 4 lumber
tight against your corner pin and hammer down so the top face of the 2 x 4 is
exactly 45” down from your finished grade stake. Measure from your corner pin
down the string that represents the inside face of your pool panels 8’ or the
length of the 1st corner panel and place another 2 x 4 block
centered so the 1st and 2nd panel will share this 2 x 4
support block and be the right height. Continue along the string making sure
the 2 x 4 blocks correspond with the panel placement for your particular pool.
This will make bolting the panels and leveling then much faster and easier.
Next set the swimming pool wall panels on the supporting ledge and leaned against the side of the excavation according to the panel diagram provide in the construction plans.
The Skimmer and Inlet Placement
Placement
for the skimmer and inlet fittings should now be determined. It is best to
place the skimmer near the center of one of the long sides and down wind of the
generally prevailing breezes. In this way the wind will help direct surface
dirt and debris to the skimmer for removal from the pool. In addition,
thoughtful consideration should be given to the circulation pattern of the
water when placing inlets. Strive to eliminate as much as possible all dead
spots in corners. Water temperatures in a heated pool will be kept uniform,
chemistry will be constant, and maintenance will be kept to a minimum.
Bolt Panels
Before
you set the panels check all corner pins to make sure they are square and the
correct width and length apart. Beginning at any corner, assemble the first
wall panel to the corner panel using the appropriate corner brackets for the
pool you are building. Note: the photo on the left is a bracket for an Emerald
corner.
The bent
bolts are used on these corners so one bolt can be used to attach both panels
to the bracket. Do not tighten the nuts and bolts completely at this time as
you may need to shim slightly later. Assemble succeeding pool walls leaving out
the top bolt (the adjusting rod goes here) Keep the panel face just touching
the string. The corner will be stable but as you add panels the wall will tend
to lean in or out and make bolting difficult so install a deadman
and adjusting rod every 2nd or 3rd panel.
In the
photo on the left the pool is above the existing grade so they are using the 2nd
bolt hole. When the pool wall is barely above grade use the top bolt hole and
make sure the top of the deadman is at least 2” below
the top of the panel.
The threaded
rod is used to plumb your walls after the pool is checked for square and the
walls are straight and pinned at the bottom with re-bar.
Tighten Bolts and
Install Adjusting Rods
Make
sure the top of the panels and the inside face of the panels are flush and
tighten the bolts and nuts firmly. For the top bolt use the threaded adjusting
rod putting a nut on the bent end then putting through the top hole and
tightening the second nut firmly. Put a nut on the long threads and through the
dead man apx. 5” back and using a mall pound the dead
man into the ground to the panel height. By turning these nuts, plump the
walls.
Squaring
the Pool Walls
After
all pool walls are assembled, position the complete assembly absolutely square
and parallel. Do this by measuring length, width and diagonals as found in your
construction prints. First, fit the pool to the deep end walls excavation as
close as possible. An easy way to achieve squaring is by setting an alignment
string along the bottom length of the pool wall, and straightening a long wall
first. Recheck the widths of the pool at the corners. Then measure the
diagonals of the pool walls corner to corner. When the dimensions are equal,
the pool is squared. Straighten the remaining walls. When the wall assemblies
are straight, square and parallel, drive 3/8” x 2’ re-bar pieces into holes
located in the bottom flange of the pool wall panels along the entire pool
perimeter. Pin the corners first. Leave 6” of re-rod extending above bottom
flange.
Hint: Your 4 corner pins (8 corner
pins for a emerald pool) should have been checked for square per your print
before you started bolting your panels and once they are all bolted together
all you need to do is straighten the walls at the bottom using a string offset
the width of a piece of ¾ shim material on each end. Check with a shim at each
panel joint and tap the wall in or out as needed and pound a 3/8” x 2’ rebar to
hold the bottom true.
When
using a step section, individual manufacturer instructions should be followed
for installation procedures. Most dealers will prepare the step so once it is
put in place in the excavation it is ready to bolt up to the panels. The
installer in the photo has turned the step upside down on four foam knelling
boards. He is attaching the supports to the brackets so they stay in place when
they turn it over and carry the step to the excavation. The supports are kept
in place by running a piece of re-bar through each support and wrapping the
support to the re-bar with duct tape keeping them in place at the bottom.
Next
he turns the step upright and using a corner bracket clamped to the flange with
the top of the bracket ¾” above the flat part of the step flange (a ¾”
piece of foam is packaged with the face plate screws to fill this void and when
duct taped on that flat portion helps assure both sides are drilled the same.) and
marks the holes with a pencil and drills the bolt holes in the flange. To
keep the lower edge of the step straight when pouring the concrete footing,
place a 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 across the lower front length of the step section,
(inside the pool), securing it with forming stakes so the concrete doesn’t push
the step out from the pressure of the concrete.
Leveling the Pool to the Predetermined Elevations
Check
the level at each panel joint and at each of the step’s four corners. Level the
pool walls with the transit using shims under the pool walls as necessary.
(1/4” masonite cut in 4” x 6” squares works well for
shims) This procedure is very important and enough time should be devoted to
the leveling procedure to assure an absolutely level pool. Following the
leveling procedure, plumb the pool walls using adjusting rods and dead man anchors
or bracing system. To achieve a straight sight line and plumb walls, stretch an
alignment string along the top of the pool walls from corner to corner, on each
straight section of wall.
Installation
of Main Drain
1. Assemble the main drain by putting
thread tape on the fitting in the bottom opening and tightening or install the
gravel stopper if used 
at
the bottom of the drain; and a male insert adapter in the side opening. Cover
the opening of the main drain with parallel strips of duct tape. Trim the
excess off at the outer edge of the sealing surface. This will keep the screw
holes free of dirt until the bottom is finished. Faceplate and anti-vortex cover
will be installed after the vinyl liner is in place.
Pour a
four and a half (4-1/2) to five (5) bag concrete footing mixture around the
entire panel perimeter, at a depth of six inches (6”) to eight inches (8”) and
at least 16” wide. Footings deeper than this are unnecessary and may result in
bowed or crooked walls.
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POOL SIZE |
YARDS OF CONCRETE |
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12
X 24 |
2-1/2
YARDS |
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14
X 28 |
3
YARDS |
|
16
X 32 |
4
YARDS |
|
18
X 36 |
4-1/2
YARDS |
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20
X 40 |
5
YARDS |
|
24
X 44 |
5-1/2
YARDS |
Install
all corner sections first with the self-drilling, self-taping screws provided.
Corner sections next to a step may have to be cut and hand trimmed to fit snug
next to the step. An adjustable clutch screw shooter or drill with a 5/16” hex
head bit works best for driving these screws. After the corners are secured,
screw the long lengths of coping with drive screws in the same manner if cuts
need to be made and a burr needs to be filed touch up the end with coping spray
paint. Make sure the liner receptacle on the lower edge of the coping is flush
with the top inside edge of the pool walls. Screws should be driven at one-foot
(12”) intervals. Included with the
coping corners are two inch (2”) wide coping clips; Snap the clips into
the coping on the underside at each joint. These clips sometimes are placed on
the outside due to a wide space between sections and if that is the case be
sure to put all the clips on the outside and they must be placed before the
concrete deck is poured.
Please
refer to manufacturers instructions. Install the skimmer on the pool wall
as shown and as explained in the following steps.
Install
the inlet fitting as shown in manufacturer’s illustrations. Remove the eyeball,
the four face plate screws, and the face plate, exposing the liner sealing
gasket. Insert two face plate screws, without face plate, to aid in locating
screw holes after liner installation. The inlet fitting is ready to receive the
liner.
Before
starting, coat the concrete footings with about two inches (2”) of clean sand
to cushion the plumbing. All plumbing should go straight down from the fitting
and rest on the footing. Start plumbing at the back of the inlet fitting. Apply
Teflon tape or permatex 2 to a one and a half inch
(1-1/2”) male adapter threads and insert it into the back of the inlet fitting.
Hand tighten the male adapter, and then tighten another full turn with a
wrench. Plumb out of the inlet 4" and using a slip/slip 90 deg. elbow
plumb down to the footing and keep the pipe on the footing and undisturbed
earth to the filter pad. When you have 2 returns, plumb the other inlet fitting
in the same manner to a "T" fitting that is equal distance from each
fitting so water flow is equal to each fitting.
Note:
The location of the "T" in this illustration is
approximately midpoint between the inlet fittings,
this is where you put the one and a half inch (1-1/2”) tee fitting and continue
plumbing to the equipment pad. This will allow for equal water pressure at
each inlet fitting. Plumbing the skimmer follows the same procedure as the
inlets, with only a single line to the equipment pad. Cut off the stub of
plumbing for the main drain protruding through the footing about three inches
(3”) off the footing. Plumb the main drain line to the equipment pad. Before
filling the pool with water, all the plumbing to the equipment pad should be
completed to a level at least as high as the top of the pool wall. Not
following this procedure will result in an overflow when filling the pool if
the face plumbing is not completed. If possible it is best to complete the face
plumbing on the equipment pad and pressure test the plumbing for leaks.
To
make a pressure tester for you’re roughed in plumbing you will need 1-1/2” Sch.
40 “T”. Glue a MPT adapter and a short piece of 1-1/2” pipe in the bottom port
then Glue a 1-½” slip x ¼” MPT bushing in the “T” port and place a 0 to 60#
pressure gauge in that bushing. Glue a
1-½” slip x ½” MPT bushing in the top port and put a ½” boiler drain valve in
that bushing. You will need to use a automatic washer
hose that has a female water hose fitting on both ends to connect to the garden
hose. Use a short piece of rubber hose double clamped with the adjusting screws
both facing you (by being opposite each other you will have a good seal) to
connect to and check each underground plumbing line.
For
plumbing of the filtration equipment please refer to individual manufacturers
requirements. Remember pressure testing of the plumbing lines before
backfilling is highly recommended. This simple additional precaution can save
many, many hours of painstaking repair work and additional costs later.
Underwater
lighting fixtures and fixture housings must be installed under the provisions
of Article 680 of the current National Electric Code handbook. Twelve-volt
fixtures must be installed with an approved transformer. When installed with
proper niche, and according to Article 680 as above,
both 12 volt and 110 volt fixtures require additional safeguards. These
safeguards include either differential circuit protector or ground detectors. Local
code must be consulted concerning electrical connections. For underwater
light installation instructions please refer to individual manufactures
instructions.
2. Separate the ceramic fixture from the mounting
hub and glue a 
threaded
nipple into the ceramic 
fixture.
To
ensure maximum safety for the non-swimmer, National Swimming Pool Institute
residential and commercial code requires the installation of a safety rope
designating the change of pool bottom from shallow to deep end. (Also known as
the "break") The rope line must be one foot (1') minimum back from
the break slope as the line will give in the center and you don't want a
toddler who is at his maximum safe depth of water to slip on the slope and be
in trouble. Locate and drill 1/2" (inch) diameter holes in the coping and
insert the threaded eyelet and tighten using the re-rod with the nut welded on
the end supplied in the kit.
B. Measure an additional 14' from the
break and set two more pins against the wall and run a string between those
two, this time at the bottom of the wall panel. Now measure four feet (4') away
from each wall, along the string and toward the center, and drop a two foot
(2') re-bar pin. (A plumb bob may be used for better accuracy.) Drive the two
foot (2') re-bar pin down with a hammer. This is now the end of the slope,
(slope termination), and defines the width of the hopper side walls and the
beginning of the deep end floor. Measure from the string down to the re-bar pin
and mark it at 54" (inches). This now defines the finished depth of the
pool at eight feet (8'-0") from the top of the steel panel. This
determines the depth of the deep end (hopper). (Again, this can be made up to
two inches (2") deeper, but never less than 8'-0"). The main drain
can be set an additional two inches (2") lower.
Put
all gaskets, face plates & screws in a safe place & using PVC cement on
the threads tighten firmly the plug in the bottom of the main drain then tape
the top with duct tape. Note: This is important as it is impossible to get a
screw in successfully when screw holes are full of vermiculite!
Elbow.
Using a 90 deg. elbow, just above the bond beam, run the main drain plumbing to
the filter area or at a minimum to a point above the water level and cap off
end of pipe with duct tape. Note: In the photo on the right the pipe on the
right is from the main drain, the pipe on the left is from the skimmer and they
need to be 10” apart center to center to accommodate the 3- way mixing valve. The pipe in the center can
be used for the return lines or a P/C line.
Mixing
Procedure for Vermiculite Pool Base
Next add recommended amount of
Portland Type 1 cement. (Most
vermiculite comes in 4 cu. foot bags and you use 1/2 bag of concrete per bag of
vermiculite.) Stack your cement with a short length of #3 re-
bar under each bag in the center and with a utility
knife cut the top of the bag in the center across the width. When you lift the
re-bar and saw quickly with the re-bar you have 2 ½ bags 
sitting
upright.
Bottom finishing can be done
by progressing either from shallow to deep end or deep to shallow end. If you
choose to finish from shallow to deep end, the work crew must be able to exit
and enter the pool without disturbing the finished areas. For this purpose, a
wooden or aluminum extension ladder with a 16" x 36" board attached
to the bottom should be set on deep end floor (if a ladder is not available
use 2 kneeling 
boards
and jump frog your way out being careful to lift the kneeling boards straight
up and carefully place down.) This will enable the work
crew to climb out of the pool without disturbing the finished bottom. Mix can
be transported from mixer to pool using a wheelbarrow, then use a 2 x 12
for a ramp (a 2 x 2 nailed on the end of the 2 x 12 for the end of the
wheelbarrow to catch against will help keep the wheelbarrow and operator from
falling into the pool) to pour mixture over the pool wall directly into the
pool bottom. The crew can then use a flat shovel for final placement.
As
deep end slopes are completed and hopper bottom is troweled, strings and pins
should be removed from the bottom and voids in the vermiculite troweled smooth.
Be careful to trowel out any "nerds" or crumbs (dried vermiculite
balls from back edge of trowel) as work progresses. These will show through
the liner and the customer will think they are stones especially at night with
the light on if they are not taken out. If the bottom is trowelled
from deep to shallow it will be extremely difficult to keep crumbs out of
finished bottom. Debris cannot be swept out until bottom is cured,
most vermiculite mixes are not ready to walk on for at least 48 hours, delaying
liner installation.
When troweling shallow to
deep, keep working crumbs and debris to a final corner of the hopper. Trowel
deep end walls first then the floor around drain and work your way onto the
ladder board. Before exiting the pool pull the tape off the main drain keeping
the screw holes clean. Insert two (2) face plate screws 1/2 way down into the
drain, opposite of each other. 
Leave
the pool carefully to avoid crumbs and gently lift out the ladder and ladder
board with two (2) crew members one on each side of the ladder.
The
first step for installation of the liner is to wipe down the pool walls with a
rag to remove any dirt or vermiculite that may be stuck to the walls. Next,
tape the pool wall joints with duct tape to create and air seal and prevent air
form leaking through wall joints while the liner is vacuumed into place. Tape
should extend from the bottom edge of coping down to the top edge of the
vermiculite bottom material. It is also recommended to tape the back side edge
of the coping on the top of the pool panel to improve air seal for fitting
liner.
Using
this method will require extra installation time. After vermiculite
installation and if it is firm enough to walk on, (usually by the next day),
place liner in shallow end, rolled up as it comes from the carton. Be sure to
sweep out any debris that may be in the pool bottom. Position liner at the
shallow end wall and unroll down center of pool into deep end. Begin
installation of the shallow end of the pool aligning as is in Method # 1.
Always use kneeling boards whenever walking on a freshly finished pool floor.
Footprints are expensive to fix after the pool is filled. Footprints that are
not noticeable now not jump out at you under the pool light.
Note: In these photos the dealer is using wall foam which is not
included in the pool kit package. It comes in a 
125’
roll and if you wish to use foam you can tape it along the top edge. On windy
days use foam spray tack, it usually will take 2 cans, Spray along the top and
the bottom of the panel and spray a X diagonally
across the panel. Be sure to cut the foam around the skimmer, returns and the
light. If you install a face plate over the foam it will result in leaking
through the foam behind the liner.
Be
sure liner is correctly aligned in the pool before proceeding. After complete liner
installation, prepare to vacuum the liner into place with two (2) commercial
type vacuums or heavy-duty shop vacs. Tape a vacuum
hose between liner and wall panel at the break and another hose on the opposite
side at the break. If preferred, one hose may be run through the skimmer
opening. Be sure to seal all air leaks with duct tape. Places that need to be
sealed to prevent air leaks are: If a step section is to be used, install the
step face plate when you are sure all corners are properly aligned and the
liner is wrinkle free. Place the diving board or a 2 x 12 plank that has the
edges duct taped or filed rounded with a wood rasp and position on the floor
tight against the step and place 3 sand bags on the board. Failure to take this
precaution can result in excessive stretch of the liner when the pool is filled
and the force will pull the liner out from under the bottom face plate and
leaking will result.
If
Vacuum does not remove air from behind the liner check!
1. Panel joints, (should have been duct taped before liner was dropped);
2. Return fitting inlets or the end of the pipe must be duct taped; 3.
Skimmer plumbing line taped air tight; 4. Around
vacuum holes on top of skimmer lid. Duct tape around the extension
collar of the skimmer and tape across the lid and trim duct tape at the outer
edge of the skimmer lid. Leave the lid taped until you’ve poured the deck.; 5. Light conduit end must be taped or deck box
if installed; 6. Tape ends of any plumbing that might already be
installed. If plumbing has been run to the filter tape the backwash port.
Note:
Your filter sand bags gently placed against the wall in opposite corners
will remove most of the wrinkles in the center of the pool. Don’t
worry about the main drain screws they will not tear the liner so long
as all adjustments are done slowly.
After properly positioning the liner, start
filling the pool with water while the vacuums are still running. If
using garden hoses to fill the pool, fill the hopper with a few inches of water
and place the end of the hoses on the bottom of the hopper. (Examine hose ends
to be sure no sharp edges will damage the liner.) After six (6) to eight (8)
inches of water has filled the deep end, turn off water source and install main
drain gasket and face plate while underwater.
If bottom
material is still soft at this stage a ladder and board as described in
"Bottom Finishing Procedure", should be used to avoid footprints in
the bottom. Be extremely careful of sharp edges on the board that might
puncture the liner! Proceed as follows:
Continue
to fill pool with water. It may be necessary to remove some wrinkles during the
filling operation. Wrinkles must be removed before they are covered with more
than two inches of water. If wrinkles remain, pump the water out. Remove the
wrinkles and refill the pool. Avoid this costly and time consuming error by
removing wrinkles before they are covered with water or use a water closet plunger.
(see directions below)
If the pool is to be filled
from a high pressure source of water, such as a fire hydrant or tanker truck,
fill the hopper with two feet (2’) of water from a garden hose before the high
pressure source is turn on. Direct the water from this source into the
partially filled hopper. This procedure 
should
be followed because water from a high pressure source, if allowed to hit the
hopper sides or bottom directly, can make an impression in the freshly poured
vermiculite under the liner and disturb an otherwise smooth pool bottom. Always
flush the water source for a few minutes away from the pool area before filling
the pool. This removes any accumulated sediment that may be in the water
hydrant lines.
Note: When you start filling with
only 2’ of water in the pool hopper use a 2 x10 plank with the hose secured to
the plank by putting a 20 penny nail on both sides of the hose and duct tape or
strap around the plank and hose securely. Support under the plank where it
crosses the coping to avoid bending or damaging the coping. A short piece of
2x4 on edge behind the coping or sand bags will work well. Place a counter
weight at the end of the plank so it does not fall forward into the pool.
1.
Prick
the liner in the center of the mounting bolt head and remove the mounting
bolts.
For
installation of step section face plates please refer to individual
manufacturers instructions. It is recommended that step sections be sealed with
tape behind the liner during vacuuming and filling. When the water level has
reached six inches (6") below the bottom of the face plate, the face plate
must be installed before continuing to fill the pool. The diving board is being
used to hold the liner up tight against the step while the pool is filling. As
the deep end water level get higher if the board starts to come away from the
step add 2 or 3 bags of your filter sand on the board.
When
water is approximately two inches (2") below inlets, proceed as follow to
install the inlet fitting face plates.
1. Prick the head of the screws and remove previously installed face plate
screws.
2. Position face plate and re-install the screws.
3. Tighten all screws in a cross pattern sequence.
4. Cut liner inside face plate.
Allow
water to reach within one to two inches (1-2") of bottom of skimmer
opening. Proceed as follows to install the skimmer face plate.
1. Remove previously installed face plate screws.
2. Position face plate and gasket then re-install the screws at each corner.
3. Insert remaining screws and tighten in a cross pattern sequence.
4. Cut liner inside face plate.
During
the backfill process start by backfilling all corners first then work towards
the center, be careful to remove any large rocks, cinders, large roots or other
debris. Clean sand, pea gravel, or small grade limestone are all excellent
backfill materials. The plumbing should be supported or arranged in the trench
to avoid excessive stress on the plumbing pipes. Backfill the
over-dig area up to within 1-½” of the wall panel top flange. Once the
pool is completely backfilled, fill the pool with water to the middle of the
skimmer opening.
The deck is ready to be
formed using 4" x 8' strips of 1/4" Masonite for curved decks (If
you use 2 strips of Masonite your curves will be 
more
uniform and eye appealing) or regular 2 x 4's for straight decks.
Be sure to check remembering to keep the same distance around perimeter of pool
for a neat job. Form deck three to 
four
feet (3'-4') wide all around the pool and six to eight feet (6'-8') around
diving board and step areas. Screed backfill inside the forms to maintain
constant depth of 3-1/2 to 4 inches minimum, while maintaining elevation of the
form. Staking need only hold the form in place, about every three feet (3'). Backfill dirt against the form for additional rigidity. The
top of the form should be one inch (1") below the top of the coping for a
four foot (4') wide deck thus giving a fall of 1/4" per foot. (A piece
of shim taped to one end of your level the proper thickness for ¼” per foot
fall is a handy way to maintain consistent slope for the deck.) Be sure to
mount safety rope anchors and coping clips before pouring the
deck. Make sure the back side of rope anchors are exposed to allow concrete to
hold re-bar.
Be
sure that the diving board jigs are in line with the center line of the pool,
level and plumb. The tip of the board must be 34” minimum beyond the pool wall
protruding out over the pool. Never mount the board on a raised platform even
if requested to do so by the customer. Make sure the bolts are above the deck
the correct distance per the manufacturer’s instructions. If concrete jigs are
not properly set, the board installation will appear crooked and not function
properly. Do not mount or use the diving board for at least five (5) days after
concrete is poured.